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Summary: Learn all about distributor cap check points and repair fixes for your car with expert tips in this free auto repair video clip.
Views: 5,864 | Tags: repair, diy, car, distributor, cap, cars, car inspections, car repairs, distributor caps
About the Expert
Nathan McCullough Nathan McCullough graduated from Nashville Auto-Diesel College and received their Craftsmanship Award and Honor Seal. McCullough has managed several automotiv... read more
Hi! My name is Nathan McCullough on behalf of expertvillage.com. If you get here, there was a problem, something one of your wires was installed incorrectly. We’re going to go through what to listen for and how to remedy that problem. What we’re going to do is fire up the engine for you. We switched these 2 wires around. That’s going to make these two plugs dead. It’s going to turn this from a 6 cylinder into a 4 cylinder. You’ll notice it’s going to idle real rough. When you’re shaking, the engine light may or may not come on, depending upon how long you run it for. Let me step back and fire the motor so you can see what it sounds like. As you can see, the RPMs have dropped off significantly, about 25% of where it’s from. It’s down to about 800, which for this car, is not fast enough, being that it has lost about 60%, not quite 60%, more like 40% of its power contribution margin. We’re looking for a needle just above the one mark between the one and the second mark after it. You can feel it in the steering wheel, how it’s shaking. You might even see it in the camera, it’s shaking a little bit. You can feel it in the seat and in the dashboard. What you have are two dead cylinders, two specific cylinder misfires. Overtime, if you drive it this way the computer can compensate some, but what’s going to happen is that fuel that is being dumped into the cylinders by your fuel injectors, will wash the cylinder walls down, ruining the lubrication between the piston and cylinder wall. That will cause excessive wear and in the end destroy the engine. Chasing down which wire has the problem, we did this intentionally so I know which ones they are. This one is labeled number 4, and as you can see it’s plugged into the fifth socket. Unplug that guy, we’ll take the one that is supposed to be plugged into right there. Put 5 on 5, and 4 back on 4. Make sure when you reinstall the wires you hear the double click sound, that means they are seated properly. We’ll go back and refire the engine. As you can see, the engine has moved back up to the 1200 PRM range, right between 1000 and 1200 is appropriate for this car. All that shaking and vibration is gone. That’s what you’re looking for. You are ready to hit the road.
Thank you Nathan. I watched the entire series and I am confident that I will be able to change a distributor cap. I also appreciate the helpful grains of advice that was sprinkled through the narrative. Superior job!
i loved it i own the same type of car he was working on a V6 Ford Probe Gt and i'm learning so much from him