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Summary: Finding a good crack to place a stopper and how to evaluate the size and usefulness of a crack are examined in this free video series.
Views: 2,458 | Tags: mountain, gear, equipment, sports, rock, outdoors, climbing, rope, knots, rockclimbing
About the Expert
Bill Killough-Hill Bill Killough-Hill has been teaching rock climbing at Zoar Outdoor since 1995. He is an AMGA certified top rope site manager and keeps fit climbing with stude... read more
Hi! I’m Bill with Zoar Outdoor and here today on behalf of expertvillage.com. We are here at Chapel Ledges here today, at Chapel Ledges in Ashfield, Massachusetts, the trustees of the reservations property. In this series, we are going to be talking about anchors for top rope rock climbing. So making a good stop replacement. Once you found a good crack to place stopper in and its got good macro and micro structure and a good constriction, then you want to place the stopper there. Finding the right size makes a difference. It can’t be too big or it won’t wedge. It can’t be too small or it will just slide right through. So in this particular crack, I like this stopper turned this way that is going to wedge in place. It is going to still have some room there. It’s not just hanging on by the top edges. It is contacting on the surfaces on both sides. It is fully into the crack so that it is not likely to wiggle out. So I’ve got that firmly wedged in there now. Is this the right direction to pull? Is this going to stay in place? Well if I want to pull on it this way, that’s great. As long as my pole is anywhere in here, I am fine. Well, is it holding up Paul? Nope, that’s the way you get it out. So placing your stopper, think about where the contacts are going to happen, get it set in place and give it a good tug.