Understand the Different Types of Ocean Waves & Breaks
Part of the Video Series How to Surf
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Understand the Different Types of Ocean Waves & Breaks
Hi! This is Pat Weber with the San Diego Surfing Academy for expertvillage.com. In this clip we are talking about different types of waves: basically, beach type waves, reef type waves and point breaks. So when you have a beach break, you've got a sand bar that has developed, and that sand bar might have been aided by currents; maybe a jetty was trapping the sand bar; maybe there's a pier which helps trap the sand and create a sand bar—and the waves are crashing on that sand bar pretty much consistently in the same spot. Beach breaks are known to break a little harder than say a garden variety of reef wave. For that reason, they are not as desirable for a beginner, more challenging. A reef wave can certainly be a challenging wave—it can certainly be a barrel—but generally it is breaking further out and offering a longer softer ride than a beach break. Then there's the point break, and at a point break the waves are sweeping away along the shore creating a ride of great distances. You could go for hundreds of yards at a point break where all the elements come together, where the waves if they are big enough wrapping around the coast and you get a nice long ride.
Hi! This is Pat Weber with the San Diego Surfing Academy for expertvillage.com. In this clip we are talking about different types of waves: basically, beach type waves, reef type waves and point breaks. So when you have a beach break, you've got a sand bar that has developed, and that sand bar might have been aided by currents; maybe a jetty was trapping the sand bar; maybe there's a pier which helps trap the sand and create a sand bar—and the waves are crashing on that sand bar pretty much consistently in the same spot. Beach breaks are known to break a little harder than say a garden variety of reef wave. For that reason, they are not as desirable for a beginner, more challenging. A reef wave can certainly be a challenging wave—it can certainly be a barrel—but generally it is breaking further out and offering a longer softer ride than a beach break. Then there's the point break, and at a point break the waves are sweeping away along the shore creating a ride of great distances. You could go for hundreds of yards at a point break where all the elements come together, where the waves if they are big enough wrapping around the coast and you get a nice long ride.
About the Expert
Expert: Pat Weber is the founder, owner, and head instructor of the San Diego Surfing Academy. He has 40 years of surfing experience and has been teaching students how to surf for the past 11 years. Read More
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