How Sepia Tone Prints Vary With Strength of Solution

Video Transcript

So I put my print that had been sitting in ferricyanide for three minutes, I put it back in this water bath. And what I really want to do, is I want to get all the water and all the ferricyanide off of it. And I'm going to take it, I'm going to put it in there it goes. Right in my sepia, and I'm picking up those brown tones exactly where they bleached out. I especially like doing it with images that sort of look old fashiony. These two sisters, they really look like they're from from another time. So if you can see it picked up just a little bit of brown in there. Just a little tiny bit. Now I could let it sit longer and it could turn a really deep sepia. But I don't like that so much, I like just a little hint of brown in there. And I can just see what I got. Now fiber prints are always going to dry darker too, so I know right now that print, that looks just about perfect to me. I'm going to go back to the original RC one, and you could see this really has shifted from the way it looked before to now. I mean that's almost like a purpley brown, that's really beautiful. I'm going to pop it back in there and see what else I get. Sepia's an amazing thing, you can go from almost like a rusted orange to a purple. And it really depends on your dilution, how cold your sepia is and what type of paper you originally started your printing with. See I think that's nice. I like that much better than a normal black and white. The other thing you want to remember is when you're done doing this, clean up is essential. See I made kind of a little bit of a mess out here on my table. And also you want to rewash your prints. Whenever you tone something, you want to remember I got to rewash everything again.

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